HELP IN FINDING THE RIGHT KITE EQUIPMENT AND VALUABLE TIPS
We have been following kitesurfing since the sport took off in early 2000. A lot has happened with the equipment since then. In the guides below we hope that you will find valuable tips for finding the right equipment for your kiting. There are also tips and instructions for how to treat/service your equipment.
/Surfers in Varberg
- Are you thinking about starting to kitesurf and getting equipment?
By buying the right gear from the start, we can promise a good start to your kitesurfing career. The right gear not only makes learning easier and safer, but it also means that you save money because you buy the right stuff that you will enjoy for a long time to come.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF KITES, WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?
Today's freeride kites (SLE kites) are the obvious choice. They are easy to ride, have a large range and above all they are fun to use even when you become more skilled.
It is important to emphasize that when you buy a kite as a beginner you are buying a kite that even skilled kiters appreciate. It is not like in many other sports where you buy beginner equipment. When you buy a modern freeride kite you are buying you buy a kite that will give you joy for a long time to come, regardless of whether you become a freestyle freak or a beginner in riding waves.
That's actually how the kites looked from the beginning, shaped like a C. Not that you should compare the modern C-kites with older kites, but the shape is basically the same. C-kites have no or only a small bridle with the lines connected directly to the kite. A C-kite does not have much depower and is relatively difficult to water start compared to SLE kites. The wind range of a C-kite is also slightly smaller than other bridle-equipped kites. This makes them less good for beginners. A C-kite is very direct in control and response, which means that advanced kitesurfers who ride very off-hook and like kiteloops with a lot of power often choose kites from this category. In recent years, the C-kites have also been developed and have increased safety and a larger range, but it still requires some of the kiter, for the beginner there are simply better alternatives.
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SLE/BOW KITES
SLE stands for Supported Leading Edge. These kites have a flat profile with a bridle on the leading edge of the kite. The advantages of SLE kites are that they have a large wind range, stability and easy water start. SLE kites are the ultimate freeride kites that are easy to learn to kite with while still providing performance for really skilled kiters. SLE kites are the most popular on the market and development has been very rapid since they were launched.
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SLE - VARIANTS
In recent years, more C-shaped kites with bridle have been released. These kites are a little more stable than c-kites when it comes to control and response but are more user-friendly with a larger range, stability and easier water starts. Compared to an SLE kite with a flat profile, These kites require a little more from the kitesurfer, so this type of SLE kite is better suited to the ambitious beginner who learns quickly and who wants to do a lot of freestyle in their future career.
FOIL KITES
Foil kites are kites that do not need to be inflated. To maintain the profile, the kite instead has channels that are filled with air. A foil is very efficient and light. However, the foil can be quite tricky to handle and the water start is difficult. Today, Foilkites are used successfully in racing in light winds, where the kite's low weight and efficiency make them difficult to beat. A foil kite is not recommended for those who want an all-round kite for aquaculture.
THE SHAPE MAKES A DIFFERENCE
The shape of the kite makes a difference in performance and how it is experienced. A more open kite is very efficient (i.e. it catches a lot of wind and quickly gets up the slope in planing), the open profile also allows you to gain good height. A kite with an open profile also gives good air time in jumps as its large surface area allows you to stay in the air for a long time. The more c-shaped kites turn and react faster to the boom's deflection. Its speed means you can jump really high and use them in waves or freestyle maneuvers.
WHICH SIZE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?
The size of the kite obviously depends on how much you weigh and in what wind you want to kite and which kite model you choose.
We usually recommend a kite of 10-12 sq m as a good first kite. With these kites you can kite in a wind range of between 5-6 m/s to 10-12 m/s.
The table below is not a definitive answer but gives a small indication of which size works in each wind strength.
How close should you be between kite sizes?
On large kites you can have up to 4 sq m between sizes. On the smaller the steps will be slightly smaller with 2-3 sq m between the sizes. Of course it also depends on what type of kiting we are talking about and which board is used.
How tight you need to be between the sizes also depends on what type/model of kite you are using. It usually works fine to have 3-4 sq m between the sizes of SLE kites, while you rarely have more than 2-3 square meters between the kites if you fly c-kites
THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE KITE AND BOOM
We often talk about the different parts of the kite and boom, such as the bridle, trailing edge, leading edge, etc. To make it easier for you to understand, you can familiarize yourself with the different parts through the illustrations below
CHOOSING A KITEBOARD
The right board makes kiting easier and more fun at the beginning. Maintaining height and gaining control is the most important thing at the beginning. To facilitate, it is recommended to have a slightly longer board because a longer edge in the water facilitates gaining height.
The width of the board should be large for better planing and speed. The larger boards are adapted to make kiting in light winds as good and easy as possible. As you get more experienced, you will demand a little more performance with speed and pop. In addition to the size of the board, the shape is very important. The rocker curve is especially important to look at. Too much rocker (banana shape) makes it difficult to maintain altitude and get into planing.
The rocker of the board plays a big role in its planing properties. Look at the board from the side.
A board with a lot of rocker makes it slow and difficult to keep up with, but also easy to land tricks on. and gives soft landings. A flat board planes early but often feels a little lifeless when the wind picks up. A board with just the right amount of rocker is the most all-round.
The shape and length of the board play a big role. Beginners benefit greatly from having a slightly longer board, as the longer board makes it easier to maintain height at the start. A beginner board should therefore be relatively straight in shape and be a little longer than normal.
A normal twin tip today is 135-145 cm long and 39-43 cm wide. A light wind twin tip 150-160 cm and 45-48 cm wide.
The shape (outline) of the board together with the rocker curve also affects performance greatly. You can't just go by length and width. The outline primarily affects height gain and feel in choppy water.
A more angular profile gives a long and efficient waterline. This makes it easier to maintain height and a good pop when you are about to jump. A more curvy outline gives a more forgiving feel and makes the board easier to "carve". A board with a rounder outline also gives a much smoother ride in choppy water
TWIN TIP KITEBOARDS
A so-called Twin Tip is the board type that is most common in kiting. A Twin Tip has the same shape at the back and front, which means that you don't have to gybe or hit the board. There is therefore no back and front. There are several types of twin tips on the market, freestyle, freeride and wakestyle. The board is even more important than many people think when it comes to learning to kite. Unlike kites, it can be difficult to tell the difference between different types of Twin Tips.
A Freeride board is designed to be good at most things, to be able to function in different conditions and for many. Most freeride boards have a slightly rounder outline which makes them work a little better in waves and they turn well. Freeride boards are often quite soft in order for them to be forgiving. Since they are quite round so They are usually a little longer, this is so that you don't lose grip and height.
A freestyle board is designed for those who want to do a lot of tricks both hooked and unhooked. Freestyle boards are usually stiffer than starter and freeride boards, the stiffness gives extra speed and faster response. Just like starter boards, Freestyle boards are quite wide at the front. The rocker of the board usually has a medium curve and the shape of the board (outline) provides drive for better height gain.
A wakestyle board is designed for fast maneuvers with a lot of power - usually unhooked. Wakestyle tricks are usually done lower and more sideways than a freestyle trick - it is the pop of the board that is used instead of the kite. Wakestyle boards are usually wide and have a lot of rocker which gives extra “pop” from the water. In order to withstand the forces, boots are often used instead of foot straps. A wakestyle board is also very soft underfoot thanks to the rocker which gives soft landings, great freedom and control. But the rocker curve also makes the board slow and difficult to handle when there is marginal wind. A wakestyle board is often double concave to facilitate high speed landings, it is also usually with channels along the edges for extra grip and which make it possible to ride the board without fins.
As a beginner, you should choose a slightly more forgiving freestyle/freeride board with a slightly softer flex. It is important to point out that these boards are usable for more than one season, the modern beginner boards provide lots of fun and performance on the water. Most “beginner boards” are very similar to a freestyle board with width all the way out to the ends and with a straight outline to give speed. The bottom shape should be concave for control and make the board easy to ride.
In light winds, it is important to have a large surface area under your feet. A light wind twin-tip board is therefore long, wide, straight and almost completely flat underneath. With a light wind board, it becomes easier to maintain altitude and cruise in light winds. However, this type of board is a bit tedious to ride when it is windy because the board can easily feel large and unwieldy. For light wind kiting, directional boards such as slalom, race and foil boards are also used - these types of boards place greater demands on the kiter but they also open up more possibilities. open up completely different possibilities.
DIRECTIONAL KITEBOARDS
Wave kiteboards
For kiting in waves, boards similar to traditional surfboards are used. Many features are very similar, but the bottom shape and outline have been adapted for the extra speed that you can get with the help of a kite. A wave kiteboard is also significantly more reinforced than a normal surfboard. When you are kiting in waves you can choose to ride with or without foot straps. It is a personal preference. In short, you can say that with foot straps you can ride harder and put more pressure on the board in the turns, while those who ride without foot straps prefer it with the justification that it gives a more surfing feel.
Size of the foot strap The board is determined by the weight of the kitesurfer and the type of conditions in which the board will be used (wave size/wind direction).
Larger boards with volume that are "sailed" a little more like a windsurfing board, i.e. more on the fin. These boards are mostly used for bankapping and distance kiting. There they have a lot of volume so these boards start really early and take off with height. The worst race boards can be very demanding to ride while the more “freerace” oriented ones are easy to ride and a really good low wind alternative. This category of boards has become much smaller in recent years as foil boards have taken over.
Foil boards
Foil boards or surfboards as they are also called say, have recently become very popular. At first mostly as competition and light wind boards, but later they have also come to be used in waves. The unique thing about foil boards is that they require very little wind - when they have really got up on the foil, the resistance is very small, which means that you can ride in light wind, ride fast and gain enormous height. Foils are available today in many different designs, everything from easy-going freerides to pure racing machines in 100% carbon. In order to ride and learn to foil, you need to be able to kit carefree with a twin tip - so this type of board is not something to invest in at first. But after a few seasons it can definitely be fun to try. The feeling of floating over the water is special and must be experienced.
The suspension is a great one important part of your kite equipment. The harness is the point where the kite is connected to you - so it is important that it fits well and comfortably. There are mainly two types: types of harnesses - waist harnesses and seat harnesses.
The waist harness is by far the most popular harness. With a waist harness you get better mobility and freedom because the waist harness actually moves a little when you kite. However, its ability to move can be both positive and negative.
When you are learning to kite you often have the kite very high in the air above you (12 o'clock) - this causes the harness to be pulled up. When the kite is high above you the waist harness has a tendency to rise and you feel the hook pressing against your ribs. This can be very uncomfortable. Finding a waist harness that fits well and is the right size makes the problem less - but the fact is that all waist harnesses will initially rise (more or less), the only solution is to push the harness down again.
But a waist harness is not just bad, of course. After all, it is the harness used by 95% of all kiters. Its big advantage is, as I said, that you become more mobile and that you get a better position on the board. The right waist harness also provides good support and comfort. The disadvantage is that it needs to fit well and for a beginner it can feel like it is bulging up. But once you get a little better you will see the advantages of a waist harness.
SITTING HARNESS
Seat harnesses are not as super fancy as a waist harness. But the fact is that they are much better than they look and provide very good support. Above all, the seat harness is good because the harness cannot bulging up too much. Much like a waist harness for the beginner who often has the kite over his head, a seat harness stays in place better because the straps around the legs prevent the harness from sliding up. The hook placement on a seat harness is slightly lower than on a waist harness, putting more pressure from the kite on the hips. For an advanced kiter, the seat harness can hinder movement. Riding toeside or blind becomes a bit more complicated because the chicken loop is against the body.
What is the difference between a a kite harness and a windsurfing harness?
Actually, there is not much difference between a kite and a windsurfing harness. Several manufacturers make the same harness for both kite and windsurfing. However, the hook that is used makes a big difference. A kite hook is a little more closed and it is also "hard" so that you can get the safety pin. The kite harness also has connection points for the leash either directly in the hook but also in the back. Some kite harnesses also have a knife in case of an accident.